Sea Angler’s editor, David Mitchell, heads to the Gulf of Mexico for some blue water fishing in the Florida Keys searching of one of the tropics’ most sought-after game fish
Here’s a fun fact: From Key West, in the southernmost part of the Florida Keys, you are nearly 60 miles closer to Cuba’s Capital, Havana, than you are to Miami. It’s no coincidence then that there’s very much a tropical, Cuban, vibe to Key West where locals (and the football team) are known as Conches (pronounced ‘Conk’) after the giant, and very tasty, sea snails. Cuban coffee, the famous Cuban sandwich and even more famous Cuban cocktail, the Mojito, are all highly recommended, and readily available downtown in town of the former home of American author and fishing legend Ernest Hemingway.
After three days fishing the backcountry of the Florida Everglades I had arrived at Ocean’s Edge resort and Marina in Key West from Islamorada to sample the blue water fishing of the Florida Strait in the Gulf of Mexico. This would be a completely different kettle of fish to the Everglades: deep water, pelagic species, trolling and heavier tackle.
‘What do you want to fish for’ asked Captain Mike from Compass Rose Charters as we chatted by WhatsApp on the day leading up to going to sea. ‘Mahi-mahi’ I replied. Now’s the time to clear up some common confusion: dorado in Mexico, mahi-mahi in Hawaii, and Dolphin fish in Florida are all one and the same species – Coryphaena hippurus – a powerful surface-dwelling fish found right across tropical and subtropical waters. Unmistakable by their body shape and dazzling colours they are revered by anglers for their sporting qualities, often performing aerial displays as they attempt to escape once hooked. They are also excellent eating and commonly found of menus throughout the Keys. This would be my first time fishing for them after decades of reading glossy magazine features about fishing for them in yet another tropical fishing paradise. Now it was my turn to experience it where it all first began when Hemingway and others put Florida on the map as a go-to destination for saltwater fishing.
The following morning at City Marina I met Captain Steve who I would be fishing with aboard Windy Day, a 40-foot Seahunter. After loading the live well with baits from a cage just outside the marina we headed south into the gulf ready for a day on the dorado.
TECHNIQUE
Fishing for dorado could be described as a scaled-up method of how to fish for bass when they are feeding on or near the surface. Scouring the sky for birds, in particular mutton birds of Frigate birds, any sign of even single birds beginning to circle is an indicator of fish below pushing bait fish towards the surface. In such a vast, featureless, ocean searching the sky for birds can seem like an impossible task until, suddenly, there they are and it’s action stations as the skipper and crew manoeuvre the boat and rig up with cut baits or lures. The other method for finding fish is to look for any floating features in the water: sargassum weed, tree trunks, abandoned packages of goods left behind by Miami drug runners – literally anything that provides shelter for bait fish which will in turn attract predatory dorado. Again, searching for specks of debris in the vastness of the Gulf of Mexico can feel like a hopeless task for the uninitiated. But again, find it and there’s a very solid chance you’ve found some fish as well.
Mutton birds spotted, we began successfully with a couple of schools of dorado found and small male fish coming to the boat on the live baits. Once you’ve hooked one keeping it in the water behind the boat will keep the rest of the fish interested and the action can be non-stop. Spook the fish though and they can quickly go off the feed and disappear.
As the day progressed the birds disappeared and we decided to troll a series of baits and lures while we continued to search for them. I confess an early start, a lunchtime beer (purely for rehydration purposes), the heat, and the hum of the engines sent me into a light sleep as we cruised the ocean. I was instantly snapped awake by the unmistakable clicking of the ratchet on a reel screaming when a fish took the bait and over the course of the next few hours I added two bonito and a very welcome rainbow runner to my species list.
Amongst all of this we came across a number of, what looked from a distance like, small, unmanned sailing boats. As we got closer Captain Steve explained that these were, in fact, solar and wind powered US Navy sail drones and that we were most likely being watched by the drone operator somewhere back at base, presumably looking for immigrants crossing the strait from Cuba. All I could think about was the structure they provided and how many dorado might have been underneath them! However, fishing near them and using them as fish aggregating devices would probably have resulted in an armed response from a team of Navy Seals. With that in mind, after a few quick photos, we left the drones to whatever it was they were doing.
HAWK EYE
That evening I travelled back north to Marathon and enjoyed a night at Hawks Cay Resort for a final day’s fishing the following morning with captain Mike aboard Hawk Eye Charters, one of the boats that can be booked when staying at Hawks Cay. The plan was to continue the same method of fishing for dorado. Captain Mike’s steely determination to show his VIP British guest a good day’s fishing was evident. Like most charter boats in the Keys, Captain Mike caters for all types of anglers, from families taking a half day trip to experienced anglers from all over the globe looking for world-class fishing, and everything in between. Joining us for the day was Amanda from Hawks Cay Resort, along with her boyfriend, himself a fishing captain, on a day out to experience fishing from Hawks Cay with Hawk Eye charters.
The day started brightly with the lone circling mutton birds being spotted shortly after heading to sea. Today we would be fishing with cut baits, mainly of ballyhoo, a beaked baitfish looking not dissimilar to a garfish or saury (sold as Bluey in the UK) which are particularly effective baits for a whole range of species. Circling around the area of water being patrolled by the birds we trolled out baits which were soon hit by dorado. Bringing one fish to the boat and leaving it in the water we then cast out another bait, waited for a bite, placed the rod in a holder on the stern, and picked up the first rod to bring the initial fish aboard. This is a great method for keeping the feeding fish by the boat once you’ve located them. A steady stream of keepable fish came aboard and captain Mike was soon filling the icebox with fish – none of them specimens but good fun on the light tackle we were now using. Specimen dorado are now becoming increasingly rare in Florida’s waters. Predictably, the cause of this is put at the feet of Mexican commercial fishing which targets them as they travel east before reaching Florida. The minimum legal length for dorado in Florida is 20 inches with a 10 fish bag limit per person or a 60 fish boat limit, whichever is less. With our dorado bag limit reached it was time to try something different and head inshore and see if we could find any red snappers on the reefs. The recreational season for red snappers had recently opened and captain Mike had found a mark that had produced fish the week before. Snappers of all species have a remarkable ability to steal baits without being hooked – something I had experienced on another day’s fishing the reefs off Key West and fishing from the bridges in Islamorada where, despite by best efforts, my hooks were stripped clean by mangrove snappers. Two drifts in and a solid bite indicated something had taken the fish bait. Still fishing in considerable depth of water compared to the UK, I pumped the fish towards the surface and landed a stunning looking metallic pink, red snapper which was to prove to be both my final species and final fish of my Florida Keys adventure.
Captain Mike had produced the goods to end the trip on a high. Six days of fishing had shown me the spectacular variety of fishing on offer here in the keys. I had learnt various new techniques, a number of them I am keen to adapt and try at home for UK species, such as freelining baited jig heads for black bream over reefs. All in all it had been an incredible experience but my overriding memory was how warmly welcomed I had been by everyone I met, all keen to ensure that my experience in Florida was one to remember. So much of the culture of the Keys revolves around fishing that, as I made my way back along the highway to the bright lights of Miami beach, it became obvious why so many people who’ve experienced Florida’s fishing, warm climate, and even warmer welcome, keep coming back.
HOW TO GET THERE YOURSELF
America As You Like It has a seven-night holiday to Florida from £1,980 per person, including return flights from London Heathrow to Miami and car hire. Also included are two nights at the Fisher Inn on Islamorada, three nights at the Oceans Edge Resort & Marina on Key West and two nights at Hawks Cay Resort on Marathon.
Tel: 020 8742 8299
Ocean’s Edge resort and Marina
Billed as “Key West’s largest luxury resort” the property has 175 spacious suites and rooms and six pools. An on-site marina has 111 wet and 52 dry slips, watersports, a restaurant, bar, Starbucks, fitness building and dog park also are on-site.
Compass Rose Charters, Key West
Join Captain Mike Weinhofer for an unforgettable Key West, Florida back country or offshore fishing experience.
Hawks Cay Resort, Marathon
Hawks Cay Resort is a AAA Four Diamond Award–rated property that offers 250 two- and three-bedroom villas and 177 guest rooms. The 60-acre resort features something for everyone with a Saltwater Lagoon, Oasis Cay adults-only area, and Coral Cay activities center for kidsl.
Eagle Eye Charters, Hawks Cay Resort
www.hawkscay.com/fishing-charters/eagle-eye
For more information on visiting the Florida Keys go to: fla-keys.co.uk
